Lesson: Marriage of Metals and Sweat Soldering

Lesson: Marriage of Metals

    Puzzle Inlay

• Trace the shape you want to fit on 2 separate sheets of metal.
• Cut outside the line for one piece, inside the line for the other
• File down to the line on both pieces, fit together
• Solder

    Wire and Solder Inlay

• Form wire into the shapes you want- use hard wire (brass or nickel rather than copper)
• Emboss the wire shape onto an annealed sheet.
• Use either the rolling mill or goldsmiths hammer. Softer metals make a better impression (copper and sterling)
• Flow solder into the groove left by the wire- Solder inlay
• Using the third hands clamp wire to sheet. Solder or fuse. – Wire inlay

Other options:

• Drill holes in sheet. Clip of wire to fit through the holes- solder.- Wire inlay

• Use chasing tools or stamps to create patterns. Flow solder into the grooves.- Solder inlay
• You can also run a sweat soldered piece through the rolling mill to flatten it out. Make sure to begin with a thick bottom layer- 18 or thicker- as it will thin out a lot getting flat.

Tips and tricks:

• You want the pieces to fit TIGHT! The tighter the fit, the easier the soldering and cleanup- file carefully!!
• Use the same gauge of metal for both pieces in puzzle inlay
• Make sure to heat both pieces to soldering temperature- copper heats up quicker than brass!
• Use flat sheet, and do any forming after cleaning up.
• Work on a slightly larger sheet than you think you will need for hollow constructions.
• Do any piercing after doing marriage of metals.
• Make sure to use hard solder if you are going to be doing more soldering later!
• Use the half-round side of your file to clean up- sometimes the edges of the flat side leave gouges in your sheet. Alternatively, bend the piece slightly to avoid gouges, flatten after filing.
• Be careful when annealing married sheet not to overheat and run the solder.
• Don’t combine brass and silver. It is difficult to see.
• Use a thicker gauge than you think you will need as cleanup will remove some of the thickness.
• Remember that since the different metals take patinas uniquely you can bring out the pattern that way.

Lesson: Sweat Soldering

Sweat soldering is the term for soldering 2 sheets together on the surfaces. Soldering the ends of sheet together is called a butt seam, Overlapped edges are called a lap seam.

Tips:

• Sweat soldering takes a lot more solder than you think it will- remember that the entire area needs to have solder on it.
• Leave a small area that you can cut off afterwards as a place to feed any additional solder into.
• Place sweat soldering piece on grates or tripods to allow for quickest heating of the pieces. The soldering boards absorb heat.
• The entire piece(s) need to get hot all around in order for the solder to fully flow.
• Sweat soldering is easiest when the pieces are flat. Once soldered, form with plastic mallet.

Sweat Soldering- Laminate method

• If one of your pieces has piercing or a smaller area than the other, this is your top piece.
• Clean both surfaces to be soldered well- no dirt or oils on the metal.
• Both surfaces should be clean and fit together well.
• Lay your top piece on the soldering board face down so that the side that will be soldered is up.
• Flux and heat your flux until clear.
• Place chips of solder all over the piece.
• Heat until the solder begins to slump and flow. Do not let it flow completely!
• Pickle and brass brush.
• Reflux the piece and lay with the solder side down on top of your bottom piece.
• Use cotter pins, cross tweezers, or third hands to apply a small amount of pressure- holding the 2 sides together.
• Heat until the solder flows.

Sweat soldering- Sandwich method

• Clean both surfaces to be soldered well- no dirt or oils on the metal.
• Flux both surfaces to be soldered.
• Heat top piece until the flux is clear.
• Place solder chips all over the top piece.
• Place the bottom piece over the top piece and clamp together.
• Heat until the solder flows.

Sweat soldering- feeder method

• Clean both surfaces to be soldered well- no dirt or oils on the metal.
• Clamp top and bottom pieces together
• Flux.
• Heat both pieces up to soldering temperature.
• Using wire solder, hold the end of the wire to the seam. It should melt and flow into the seam. If it balls up and drops off, the piece isn’t quite hot enough.
• Feed the solder into the seam until you see the solder line all the way around the seam

You should be able to see your solder line around every edge of the piece.

If you do not see that solder line, you need more solder.

Feed in any additional solder from the easiest area to clean up afterwards.

Project 1- Locket or Tea Strainer

Project 1: Hinged Locket or Tea Strainer

Lockets have traditionally contained images or small mementos of loved ones, something not in plain view, but known to the person wearing the locket. For your locket, think about the word secret. What does it mean to you? How can you use that as part of your design? Also consider how you can work with ideas and imagery of what you are enclosing in the locket to create a unique and well-designed piece.

Tea strainers take many shapes and forms, some fantastic, but always retaining functionality- letting the water move over the tea leaves, brewing the tea, yet trapping the leaves inside. For your tea strainer think about the word flow. What does that mean to you? How can you use that as part of your design? Also consider tea and tea leaves and imagery that evokes for you. Is tea relaxing or stimulating? How can you portray those ideas in your form, creating a well-designed piece.

For this project, create a locket/strainer that is comprised of two parts hinged together on one side and a small catch to hold it closed. You can make more than 2 parts if you wish.

Consider shape, scale, surface, imagery and purpose when designing your piece. You can use any skills, materials and techniques you have learned to this point.

Dates:

January 25- 10 ideas/sketches/maquettes are due. Discuss designs with Jenn and get any needed supplies. Write a paragraph or two on the thoughts that led you to your designs and why you chose locket or strainer.

February 8- Halfway point in project- aim to have your fabrication mostly complete. Finishing always takes longer than you think it will!

February 22- Group critique at the beginning of class.

Lesson: Hinges

Lesson 2: Hinges

Straight hinge:

• Cut tubing into 3 (+) equal pieces
• Make sure that the tubing pieces together equal the length of the side you will be soldering them to.
• File a groove into the edge of your piece so that the tubing fits into the groove.
• Use the third hands, pins, metal shims, binding wire, or graphite to hold the tubing in place for each side. Place the sides close enough together to be able to check alignment without worry of soldering everything together.
• Solder the tubing to the piece- 2 pieces to the top and bottom of one side, the 3d piece to the middle of the other side.
• After piece is almost complete (exceptions: patination, epoxy, other color treatments besides enamelling), set the hinge.
• Remember that a hinge is a glorified rivet.
• Ball up one end of the wire
• Feed through tubing
• Clip off the other end approx. .5-1mm above the end of the tubing.
• Rivet in an X pattern
• Do any polishing necessary.

Alternative Hinge soldering (bridge method)

• Cut 2 pieces of tubing- one as long as the overall hinge, one the length of the center knuckle.
• Mark the long piece where the end knuckles should be.
• File halfway through the tubing in the middle of the long piece. Take care not to file into your end knuckles.
• Solder the long  piece to one side making sure to align it so that the filed area is against the piece- this allows you to solder both end knuckles perfectly into position at once.
• File or cut out remaining center part of tubing.
• Solder middle knuckle onto other side of tubing.

Tips and tricks:

• You can also ball the other end of the wire instead of hammering, or set a hinge with a tube rivet.
• Use the amount of pieces that seem to fit proportionally. Long seams should have more than 3 pieces.
• Never use an even number of pieces. The hinge is much sturdier with an odd number.
• Cut your tubing a little long, and file off if needed. This way if the edges of the tubing get singed (melted) while soldering, you’ll still be ok.

• Your tubing should line up straight and fit tightly together- no gaps. Besides looking much more professional, this helps the integrity of the hinge.
• If the wall that you are affixing the hinge to is thick- 18ga (depending on size of hinge) or a construction; you can use your round needle file to make a channel for the tubing to sit into.
• Make sure to heat the piece MUCH more than the tubing. The tubing won’t require any direct flame; it is so much smaller it will come to soldering temperature through heat transfer.
• To perfectly position your tubing, use your scribe to make marks on the piece. Markings made with a Sharpie will just burn off.
• Make sure that the tubing you are using can accommodate a 20g wire or thicker.
• Just like with pin backs, nickel is the strongest, copper the weakest.
• You can use a dab of super glue to secure your tubing in place prior to soldering, so that you can make sure you have it placed correctly.
• Use the Stop-Flo or yellow ochre powder! Paint it with a small brush anywhere you do not want solder to flow. Let it dry completely before applying flux and soldering.

Policies

Class Policies

Attendance

·         Attendance is very important. We cover a lot of material and you need to make the most out of your class time. Demonstrations will generally be held at the beginning of class, so please be on time. 

·         If you miss class, it is your responsibility to get the information you missed- talk to classmates, check the blog, looks at the printed handouts in the class folder.

·         If you need to miss a class, please let me know in advance or as soon as you know.

·         There will be time designated to work in class, so make sure to come prepared. However, do not expect to complete all your work during class time. Plan to rent some bench time or use your home studio space outside of class time.

Studio Access

·         The studio may be used during class time. To use the studio outside of class time, you must purchase a rental package, or pay by the hour. Having work time outside of class will allow your work to grow more and for you to be more comfortable in your work habits and the studio.

Studio and Work Safety

·         Make sure to always follow the printed safety information and your instructor’s instructions for working in the studio and safety apparel/procedures. Safety glasses, dust masks, and gloves are the most common pieces of safety equipment- make sure you have them! Earplugs and an apron are also recommended.

·         If you have not been shown how to operate a piece of equipment by an instructor or technician, don’t use it!

·         You must wear closed toed shoes- no plastic shoes or Crocs. Any long hair, loose or dangling clothing or accessories must be tied back, secured, or removed. Natural fiber clothing is highly recommended.

·         Be smart- don’t work when sick, on medication, or tired.

·         Be respectful of other students and share the communal tools- take turns!

·         Clean your area thoroughly before leaving, and make sure you clean and return all the tools and equipment you were using. Sweep/wipe down your desk, check the drawers and trays, and check the flexshafts for stray bits before turning in your tag.

Grading

Courses may be taken for a grade or for audit. 

Grades are based on the following criteria:

·         Creativity and Aesthetics: Your ideas are well thought through, interesting, and reflect your artistic viewpoint and eye. Your projects are cohesive and convey your idea and concept well. You use the design prompts in interesting and new ways, exploring fresh visual ground for yourself and continuing your growth.

·         Technical Proficiency: Your projects show a dedication to craftsmanship and working at the highest technical level you are able. Your materials are appropriate and in keeping with your ideas and the course. You show understanding and skill in the techniques we learn over the semester.

·         Attendance, Participation and Effort: You are expected to be prompt to class, and in regular attendance. You are also expected to participate in class discussions and critiques throughout the semester and be able to talk about your ideas and work. You will need to keep a sketchbook/documentation  of your ideas, projects and samples. You will need all projects for the final critique. I expect strong and consistent work ethic throughout the semester. 

Syllabus and supplies

Perfecting Basic Skills

Winter 2018 Baltimore Jewelry Center

Jenn Parnell, Instructor

Class information:

Thursdays 1-4:30pm

January 11- March 29

Office Hours: by appointment

Class blog: http://perfectingbasicskills.blogspot.com/

Class Description:

This course builds on skills learned in Introduction to Metals + Jewelry. Greater emphasis is placed on applying formal design concepts and expanding the student's personal imagery in jewelry and small sculpture. Students will increase and refine their soldering and finishing skills, in addition to being introduced to additional technical skills such as basic forming, hinges, clasps, marriage of metals. At the conclusion of this course, students are prepared to work more independently and move on to more advanced classes. Prerequisite: Introduction to Metals + Jewelry or equivalent experience.

Class Schedule:

Week 1

• Discussion: Class overview, safety, and introduction
• Lesson: Dapping and Synclastic Forming
• In Class: Sample dapped form
• Homework: Make sure all necessary supplies are ordered. Finish sample dapped form

Week 2

• Lesson: Hinges!
• Introduce Project 1: Locket or Tea Strainer
• In Class: Begin sample 3 knuckle hinge
• Homework: 10 Designs/maquettes for Project 1, Complete sample hinge

Week 3

• Lesson: Marriage of Metals
• In Class: Discuss designs for Project 1 with Jenn
• In Class: 2 marriage of metals samples, begin work on project
• Homework: Samples, Work on project

Week 4

• Lesson: Clasps, part 1
• In Class: Sample clasp, work on project
• Homework: Samples, work on project

Week 5

• Lesson: Patinas and Finishing

• In Class: 2 sample patinas, work on project

• Homework: Work on project, finish samples

Week 6

• Lesson: Spiculum forming
• Introduce Project 2
• In class: Work on project 1, design for project 2, sample spiculum
• Homework: 10 Designs/maquettes for Project 2

Week 7

• Project 1 group critique
• Lesson: Anticlastic forming
• In Class: Discuss Designs for Project 2
• Homework: Anticlastic forming sample, begin project 2

Week 8

• Lesson: Brooch backs
• In Class: Sample brooch back, work on project and samples
• Homework: Work on project and samples

Week 9

• Lesson: Chain making
• In Class: Sample chain, work on project
• Homework: Work on project, samples

Week 10

• Lesson: Clasps part 2

• In class: Sample clasp, work time on project/samples
• Homework: Work on project

Week 11

• In Class: Work time for the entire class.
• Homework: Complete project 2 and any outstanding samples

Week 12

• In Class: Individual Final Critiques

Supplies

Basic jewelry tools- saw, files, drill bits, pliers, cutters

Soldering Pick

Hard, Medium, Easy solder

Ruler with metric measurements

Sharpie- Extra Fine point in black or dark color

Scribe

Sandpaper (320, 400, 600 grit)

Steel wool

Scotchbrite

Tubing (insert wire of 18-20ga, preferably brass or bronze)

Sheet and wire for projects and samples